Who created ancient Chinese fashion makeup? When did the trend of stacking become popular? Did the man really wear skirts before? These questions, maybe you want to ask when watching costume dramas, but you ca n’t find the answer; now through the work of recovering the group, we may look back at the faint back of the predecessors.

Zhang Ailing once said in “Monology”:

“We each live in their clothes.”

It is easy to imagine that in the summer afternoon in Shanghai Lane in the 1940s, she walked under the window of the city with old winter clothes in the row of old winter clothes. It has to be hot, the camphor fragrance is mixed with the humid deposits of the whole winter, and the heat rises with the summer heat, so in the “between the bamboo poles and the bamboo pole, the wall of the satin on both sides -it is excavated in the ancient rich room buried under the ground. The martyrdom “came out” gradually appeared.

Following such a scene to continue to the distance, the “slowness, tranquility and neatness” presented in the past world are confused. The ancients were just a two -dimensional image hanging on the yellow scroll of the museum. The world of living is abnormally blurred, which separates us from it. These long -lost ancestors are far away, as if they are between us, not just long river.

Today, someone is trying to open this gap slowly. They recovered the costumes of different people in different dynasties in the past, from the accessories on the head to the socks and socks of the socks, from the north -south North Korea’s humble pair to the five -generation noble women’s dragging skirt, re -production of one stitch and side line, and will be left on the line. The beauty of China between ancient costumes and makeup is picked up again.

This is the costume restoration team. Founded in 2007, the costume restoration team is a group of domestic exclusive professional restoration of ancient costumes and traditional music and dances, and studying the system of public service systems. There are currently more than 30 members.

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

The studio of the studio is flat on the Tang Feng and Song Yun of the time and space

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

The main creators of the team Liu Shuai and Hu Xiaotong graduated from the Department of Chinese Painting, and Zhou Fang was a PhD in the research direction of the history of clothing dyeing and weaving in Donghua University. From Xuanzhuan to more rigorous and detailed art history tests, literature finishing, pattern repair, and hand -painting fabrics, this looks like cross -border, but for them, there is even a kind of God’s will to do this.

Liu Shuai’s body has a rigorous scholar temperament. He doesn’t have much to say. The biggest interest is to find the various clues of an ancient costume from many ancient books. Talking about the origin of this matter, he has the joy of making from the heart. “I like to watch comic comics since I was a child, and I like to watch costume films. I was impressed by the costume characters in the costumes. Later, I studied the more I found out The clothes of the ancients look better and deeper than expected, so there is such a direction. “

Zhou Fang was in the direction of clothing design in the undergraduate and master’s degree. At the doctoral stage, he chose ancient Chinese clothing research. Now he conducts teaching research in colleges and universities. She usually has a variety of dress style and sometimes bold. For her, the contrast between the dressing style and research direction in life is just like the difference between researchers and believers. In the face of work, she will cross the torrent of time at the level of consciousness and look at it with history.

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

For Hu Xiao, “cost -recovery” is more like a gene memory hidden in childhood. He was born in Shiquan, Shaanxi, and has lived in the silk factory since he was a child. The so -called “silk silk” refers to the craftsmanship that draws the silk cocoon out of silk. This craft can even trace back to the legend of the wife of Huangdi and the daughter of Xiling’s daughter. In Hu Xiao’s childhood memory, the gentle and cool silk fabric shone a different layer of glory.

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Hu Xiao shows the recovery costume of women in the Han Dynasty ▎

In the wave of reform and opening up, the Silk Factory gradually withdrew from the stage of history. Textile workers who had been fighting day and night in the factory were now active in the hustle and bustle team of street dance; But there is a sense of pride from the heart. “The aunts who retired in our factory are happy, and often tell me that there is only you in the factory now, and continue to continue the silk career.”

What they continued, not just silk career? For the costume recovery team, they tried to restore richer historical section by restoring work.

2017 Installation Restoration Group’s previous costume recovery show scenes ▎

If the excavation of cultural relics in a sense is “unexpectedly discovered” in a sense; then the cost -effective recovery work needs to be extended to restore a set of or even a series of costumes according to a certain subtle and specific unearthed cultural relics details. The characters are specific and distinct, and then start from this character, which derives the image of different people in other times. As a result, a small detail in a specific cultural relic fliminated the entire era of the entire era.

In 2010, Tang Wuhui’s concubine, who returned from the United States, was a virgin of the Tang Dynasty. As a queen of the Tang Dynasty, the portrait of the palace women’s lines with rich shapes and carved courts has attracted widespread attention at home and abroad. There are 10 screens in the inner wall of Shi Yan, carved with 21 palace female officers, female servants and palace maids. Different women on these paintings have become valuable references and reference materials.

From these rich but plane, and even the colorful stone portrait, how to dig out a set of costumes of the ladies during the Tang Dynasty? Whether it is a “entangled” ball -shaped bun with a trace of Byzantine Palace noble women, or a round match with bright makeup and uniforms, when it is restored by modern people, what it needs It is an extremely serious research and research spirit.

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Needle line crafts ▎

In Hu Xiao’s memory, Liu Shuai’s daily work seems to be constantly drawing pictures, thinking about the structure and details of various clothing from different dynasties from a professional perspective. For example, how changes in the level of men’s wear in the Tang Dynasty in different periods can be briefly understood in the modern context as the problem of “first wear autumn or first wear”, but in the restoration of the costume, it must be treated strictly.

Founder Liu Shuai ▎

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

The specific recovery production is more complicated. You need to split a character image according to steps and plans. First break down the top, skirt, and then headwear, shoes and socks. “Specifically to the top, we need to find a reference, such as a mural or a pottery figurine, began to make the clothes, analyze its structure, find the appropriate fabric, and study what fabrics and related crafts were unearthed at the time. What is the aesthetics of the times? In addition, it must be paired with various jewelry, shoes and socks, etc., and extends to the props on the character’s hands, the screens behind it, and even furniture, etc. “.”

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

They once recovered the middle -aged Li Bai’s wardrobe. What kind of clothing would Li Taibai wear at that time?

When Li Bai was in Shu, he was infiltrated by Taoist atmosphere. His “Shang’anzhou Pei Changshi Book” was cloudy: “At the age of five, he chanted the six -year -old, and he was a hundred at the age of ten.” Du Fu and others asked for immortal visits. At the age of 44, Li Bai invited the Beihai Gao Tianshi to teach Taoist Taoist in Qizhou (Jinan) to become a priest of Shangqing.

To restore the Taoist costumes of Li Taibai at that time, we must understand the Taoist ritual and legal style. According to historical records, at the end of the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the Taoist clothing system tended to improve.

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Wearing a crown or a scarf, a brown on the upper body, a skirt on the lower body, and the outer cover and 帔.

The “Three -Cave Cave Method Division” by Zhang Wanfu of the Tang Dynasty recorded the seven -level monk’s legal clothing.

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

The 袖 is a long coat of a large sleeve. In ancient times, it was made of crane feathers. Later, the tadpole worn by the Taoist priest was also called “crane”, covering brown and skirts. Alas, also known as “Piece”, is a nearly rectangle. There are laces on the side of the clothes. It is loosely put on the outermost layer.

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Taoism also has a special crown, which looks like a lotus, called the lotus crown or hibiscus crown. The main image of the Tang Dynasty lotus crowns is a crown of petals in four directions, standing on top of the head, and a long petal is extended in front of the crown, and the mule is inserted into a fixed bun from the back. Among the cultural relics of the Tang Dynasty, the image of the lotus crown with cranes and crickets is common. For example, the statue of Changyang Tianzun in the first year of Tang Kai, the statue of the Taoist Grottoes of the Hemingshan, the statue of the Tang Dynasty old monarchs, and the Taoist image in the murals of the Tang tomb.

Exquisite recovery head crown 原

At this point, what Li Bai, who is in his forties, has gradually become clear-

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

When he uses lotus as the crown, neon as a skirt, a crowd and alertness, and walking between the mountains and clouds, those ethereal verses also come, “Lotus Mountain on the west, see the stars. The step is too clear. The neon is dragged with a wide band, and the sky is rising to the sky. I invite me to board the pair, Gao Yanwei Uncle Qing. “

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Of course, there are many novels and fun discoveries during the recovery process. For example, who is caused by ancient Chinese fashion?

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Hu Xiao has a strong feeling. “The trend of ancient clothing is generally created by women, but because most Chinese history books are not written by women, most of the trend and innovation in girlfriends will not be recorded. The aesthetics are written in. For example, how women should wear and how to wear it in men’s eyes are beautiful, but they ignore the real women’s creation of beauty. “

Through professional makeup and hairstyle, the model passed back to history ▎

He talked about an interesting history: During the Mid -Tang Dynasty where Bai Juyi lived, women were popular in the field of “black cream in injection lips and mud, double eyebrow paintings”. This poet who is approachable and interacts with the people obviously does not like this kind of punk’s eight -character eyebrows and black lip makeup. , Makeup is like a sad cry. “

In addition to this dark metal dress, the “blood halo makeup” popular during this period also highlights the unique female aesthetics of the booming period of the Middle Tang Dynasty. “Tang language • Volume 6” contains: “Changqingzhong (821-824 AD), the woman went to the eyebrows, with Dan Zi three or four horizontal, about the upper and lower eyes, which is called blood and halo.” During the makeup, the eyebrows are completely shaved off, and three or four lines are painted on the eyes with purple -red, like spots blood caught by the nails.

This special makeup was created by a beautiful court beauty expert at the time. At the important occasion of the inner hall with the heavenly son banquet, the newly -different woman did not insert Zhu Cui, not sticking flowers, and only swept a few colorful red and purple shadows around the eyes.

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Hu Xiao appreciates this pure “pleasing self” spirit. “In our research process, I gradually realized that a word name is actually, that is, the” woman is the one who pleases himself “, such as the eight -character eyebrows and black lip makeup mentioned earlier, Bai Juyi doesn’t like it. Orthodox men don’t like it, but women like it. I like it if I like it. Among them, there are gradually awakening women’s consciousness. “

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

These free and open women’s consciousness float in the city of Chang’an in the old days. Makeups such as high, dangerous makeup, eyebrows, and opening the amount from the court to the market. With the new attitude of the ancients towards fashion. The poet Wang Jian has the poem “Dance and Khan wet Luo Yi, the people upstairs support the jade ladder. Back to the courtyard to reinstate the face and pour red mud in the golden basin water”, describes a one who has just returned from the dance, leisurely removing makeup removal of makeup removal, leisurely removing makeup removal Fashion Lady’s moment in a weekdays.

Through these specific fabrics and decorations, the costume recovery team tries to complete an invisible task. Gentle memories of national collective subconsciousness.

The staff in front of the show adjusts the recovery clothing on the model nervously ▎

In the 40th round of “Dream of Red Mansions”, Jia mother went to Xiaoxiang Pavilion to replace Lin Daiyu on the “Soft Tobacco” window screen. In Jia’s mouth, the curtain is moving,

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

“The same rain is sunny, the same is autumnal, the same is green, and the same is silver -red. If you make a account, confuse the window drawer, look at it from a distance, it is like a” soft smoke Luo “, so it is called” soft smoke Luo “, The silver -red is also called ‘Xia Yingfang’. “

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Such descriptions always make people have an elegant imagination about ancient daily life.

We can’t see what the soft smoke Luo looks like, but we can see the style of different identities in Chang’an City in the Tang Dynasty through “Twelve hours of Chang’an”. Restore the group. Through their efforts, the virtual figures that originally existed on the yellow paper were described and explained, and they changed into a more concrete cup of tea or a pot of wine. Pick up the flower tea cup, you can feel the ancient charm, as well as the work of the Chinese costume recovery team. Through research and restoration of ancient costumes, the traditional beauty pixels of the fluttered tradition.

The exquisite recovery jewelry makes the traditional beauty more symbolic ▎

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

“We want to restore the ancient costumes and want to visualize the traditional culture. When it is specifically displayed, people will understand when they see it. It turns out that traditional Chinese culture does not please people, and it has a confident and high temperament. We always think that the ancients are only beautiful. In fact, the tall posture is the most common gesture of the Chinese nation. “

Article Source: “Fashion COSMO” August issue

Edit: Ruofei

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Text: Stars

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Photography: Bao Yanzhou

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Vision: Bian Yuqing

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Makeup: Xue Ning

Style: Forming restoration team

Image Source

Fashion cosmo / respondent provided

时尚守艺人 | 中年李白的衣橱什么样?装束复原小组复原了

Bleak

2017 Installation Restoration Group’s previous costume recovery show scenes ▎